Cruise 2018

When you are young and it is a special day such as Christmas or your birthday you awaken early with excitement.

It is no surprise then when the first crew member is watching the sun rise at 04:34 and the second crew member has set off at 06:00.

And so the first day of this year’s cruise has arrived and we welcome our readers to this year’s blog.

Friday 8 June

The crew mustered at 15:57 when Duncan met David on the platform at Paignton. Then a short car journey to the marina before stepping aboard the 45’ sailing yacht Liquid Asset (Sun Odyssey 45DS). Dartmouth was buzzing with the departure of the steam train, yachts being hoisted back into the water, ferries plying across the river and divers unloading their catch of scallops.

As always, Liquid Asset looked stunning as we approached her along the long narrow walkways of Dartmouth Marina and soon to be on board her polished decks and teak furniture.

The clouds were clearing to leave a blue sky and over a cup of tea we started to passage plan the trip. So how easy is it to work out a departure time and date and a destination? We could leave tomorrow and go anywhere – stop! – what is the weather doing over the next few days and how far can we go and return in 14 days?

Clearly Ireland is too far and there is a ‘blow’ coming through on Monday – Tuesday. So a plan was agreed and a departure time set … let’s get the boat prepped.

Editor’s note : Blog updates depend on accessing the internet and often there is no 4G or WiFi along the coastline. Often we are forced to visit local pubs just to get a signal and therefore posts can be erratic ! And unfortunately Bob has family commitments this year and we miss you already.

Rock Fish restaurant in Dartmouth hosted our traditional pre cruise meal. The seafood menu was extensive, the atmosphere relaxed and the Pinot Grigio hit the spot.

The departure time was adjusted to make more time to prep for the trip and test the dingy and outboard engine,

On our return, we were attracted by a wooden mast on the quayside being repaired. Being very long and straight could it possibly be a whole tree so we started to exam for any scarfed joints. Then the carpenter returned to explain its laminated structure and that it belonged to a Bristol Cutter once owned by Tom Cunliffe – fascinating.

Back on LA for a fine malt, check the navigation lights then after a very long day zzzz…

Saturday 9 June

A cup of tea and an apple to start the day sets the tone for a healthy living diet – some like to eat the apple whole and others like it cubed or sliced.

08:30 Victualling for our journey is similar to going shopping for food as we buy from the same places. We planned to buy essentials for 7 days and top up with local fresh supplies at each port of call. However that may involve a trip in the dingy, a climb up a hill, a 2 mile walk and a return journey with a heavy bag. So we really didn’t hold back and ended up with “ 8 feet of provisions “ at the checkout. Job done.

09:30 Fresh coffee and blueberry muffins on deck for breakfast and the diet already takes a knock. The winds were checked again as they have a habit of changing and our original passage plan was confirmed with a destination of Sark and a departure day of Sunday. We have all day to prep, repair, plan and of course find a Wi-fi signal to post the blog.

Editor’s note : Blog built with WordPress and a template is being used to create the pages and functionality. There may be hiccups at the beginning and throughout because of erratic access to the internet.

Navigation lights are essential on a vessel as they arranged to shine at set angles in various colours – green for starboard, red for port and white for rear sides and ‘steaming’. Our checks yesterday found the green light had failed.

10:30 Testing for voltage at the light unit when the live wire came apart – fault discovered. After feeding more cable from below, stripping back the wires, crimping new connectors and refitting the unit and grommets – success our nav lights are now working. DIY electronics

11:30 Time for some exercise to burn off those muffins. The new dingy was inflated with the foot pump, outboard engine attached and then launched ready for action. It was time to find some Wi-fi signal in Dartmouth.

Crossing the River Dart in a dingy and under the bridge into the inner harbour before tying up is always thrilling. The paddle steamer and ferries are given a wide berth, the Royal Navy craft are always of interest and the RNLI small rib is racing out to sea on a mission. Onlookers are mildly interested at our arrival as they lick their ice creams. We were soon to join them as we ate our fresh Cornish pasties sitting on the quayside. And the healthy diet now hits the floor!

13:00 Managed to find a a good Wi-fi signal and published the first of our blog pages. And it only cost the price of a pint of cool refreshing beer…

15:00 Return journey included a dingy trip to the head of Kingswear Creek, then through and around the Darthaven pontoons and finally back to LA before being lashed on the deck. (We are talking about the dingy)

17:00 Experience has taught us to plan to arrive at the Channel Islands with favourable tides and so the navigator studied the tidal charts, flows and wind forecast. The distance was calculated as 74NM and estimated boat speed of 6kn. The slack time when tides turn in our favour is 19:30. So departure time could be from 04:00 or even 06:00; and to our delight it will be 08:00, beam reach, steady NE wind, neap tides, 4m range and flat seas – happy days.

19:00 On deck dining – Surf (king prawns in garlic) and turf (succulent filet steak) with sweet potato and vegetables with a brown jus. Diet ‘definitely’ starts tomorrow…

Zzzzz…

Sunday 10 June

It is a surprise to many when they are told there are no ropes on board a yacht! A rope is a piece of ‘string’ not attached to anything. Tie an end to part of the vessel and the rope has a new identity and a purpose. It becomes a line, a sheet, a halyard or even a painter.

07:45 All items below deck were stowed into cupboards and these locked, navigation equipment was switched on and the ‘ropes’ were made ready to slip. One bow line is removed, one is attached as a slip line, then stern spring off and Liquid Asset is only held by two lines. Tea shirts and cap only needed in the warm sunshine.

08:15 Engine in reverse, lines slipped without leaving the boat and we are off the pontoon.

08:30 Leaving Dartmouth entrance, point the sharp end to Channel Islands switch on the autopilot and wait for 12 hours… it’s just that easy. Or is there another way?

The wind is from the NE as forecast and we raised both sails by pulling on and adjusting the ‘ropes’; firstly the mainsail (attached at the top by the main halyard) and raised with the outhaul and set by tensioning on the main sheets. Secondly the genoa sail (attached at the top by the genoa halyard) by releasing the genoa furler and pulling on the genoa sheets. The lazy genoa sheet is also made fast.

The sails were then set to harness the wind and we headed towards our planned destination. Our speed over the ground SOG (boat speed +/- tide) is 6.4kts. Remember we have to arrive about 19:30 when the tide will turn in our favour.

Who needs a key and starter button…

Within an hour we had lost sight of land and nothing to be seen except the sea, the sky and the horizon. Fleece jumper added.

12:00 Crossing the shipping lanes

We passed through both lanes by using AIS to identify each vessel’s track, up to an hour in advance, and then adjusted our speed and direction to pass safely behind. Another fleece jumper added and woolly hat.

16:35 The wind increased and backed so we reefed our sails by pulling on various ‘ropes’ and our SOG increased to over 7.0 kts. Liquid Asset sails so well in these conditions and the last miles were covered in no time.

18:22 Land sighted on the horizon although visibility was poor – Guernsey 4.88NM.

A wind proof jacket added and thicker gloves.

19:30 The tide was turning and our destination was in sight. The plan was always to find a mooring buoy but at this late hour they could all be taken. Plan B would be to anchor nearby.

20:30 Havre Gosselin – rounded Brecqhou Island and through our binoculars we spotted buoys available to pick up. Boat hook ready and we manoeuvred through the entrance of the bay and picked up on first attempt. Arrived after 12 hours at a delightful anchorage tucked under the cliffs out of the wind.

Mooring strop made secure for the strong winds forecast.

Salmon Surprise with Cajun spiced noodles then zzzz

Monday 11 June

Breakfast of muesli and fresh strawberries then some careful planning for getting onto Sark.

Why I hear you say.

Answer – it’s all about the range of the tide of over 5 metre in 6 hours and the only entrance is a step ladder and a flight of steps before the 300 feet climb.

So we decided to row across the bay at low water to the ladder and lift the dingy to a safe height. Returning at high water for an easy departure. Sounds like a good plan – what could possibly go wrong?

10:30 Shore party to Sark

Editors note :- this is a party of people going ashore and is not going ashore to a party.

The journey begins and phase one (rowing) passes by uneventfully. Phase two of hauling up the dingy to the first platform was tough but okay. Then phase three of carrying the dingy up the steps to the top platform was tricky but successful. Look at the view and then start the climb.

Meanwhile a dingy motors round to the pier and attaches a 15 metre line to the top platform leaving his dingy to float about until his return. He then disappears up the hill. What possibly could go wrong?

After several stops to look at the view, we reached the top besides Pilchers Monument. The view from here was stunning.

Walked along the narrow paths and dusty tracks to the ‘Town’ and then into our regular pub of choice Mermaid Tavern. It was buzzing with two locals and the barmaid had to serve us before returning promptly to her other customers.

Very pleased with the cool refreshing lager – a real ‘Ice Cold in Alex’ experience.

Whilst shopping for local pieces of silver we listened with interest about the plight of the Island from a local perspective. It explains the deteriorating properties and vanishing vineyards.

14:00 Lunch at Jardin de Fleur with great service. We restrained ourselves and ate only one course.

The return journey was more relaxed (downhill) and the hedge and cliff flora was very pretty.

16:30 Let the battle commence

As anticipated the water had risen to the top platform however the now three dinghies afloat all had tangled long lines. We had to stand back and watch as the web was untangled. Eventually, after everyone had left, we gently place our dinghy in the water and rowed back to Liquid Asset. Relaxed on board and watched the rocks appear as the tide fell.

20:00 Sea bass and risotto then zzzz

Tuesday 12 June

05:45 Sun hits the slopes of Brecqhou Island and the sky is pale blue and rosy pink. Seagulls and oyster catchers calling out as they swoop over the yellow lichen covered rocks that are also patched with brightly coloured swaiths of mesembryanthemum. Gannets skim over the surface and out to sea. Halyards frapping on neighbouring yachts as they gently rock on the swell. Waves breaking over the rocks and between the gulleys adds the background to this cacophony of sounds.

The sea is flat calm and a fresh breeze is blowing from behind the cliff tops.

Where shall we go to now? Clue is to fuel up and then to buy some fresh crusty bread before sunset.

Dropped the mooring buoy and slowly motored out of Havre Gosselin. We planned to arrive early at the fuel point at Guernsey and then off before the tides turned in France.

08:00 Fuel pontoon St Peters Port harbour.

We had to join the queue but it’s not like at your car petrol station. The petrol attendant 5 metre up on the harbour wall directs the operations. Three vessels alongside and three yachts plying back and forth in the harbour basin. The fuel pipes are at least 15 metre long. All seems to be going smoothly until it was our turn to come alongside.

The ‘ropes’ were prepared, the fenders adjusted and we started our approach. Suddenly a small local fishing boat saw their opportunity and darted into our space.

Before we could express ourselves vocally from afar, the attendant chased them off, and we resumed our approach. 150 litre of duty free red marine diesel didn’t take long to load and we left the pontoon and the little fishing boat behind.

08:50 Depart Guernsey and head south towards France avoiding Roche Douvre.

11:00 Sails raised and winds blowing over port quarter.

Tidal flows are an advantage if running with however a disadvantage if against. French coastal tides run up to 3.5 knots. We have to stay down tide when passing the Roche Douvre for safety and the lost hour at the fuel pontoon and our easterly route away from the rocks will affect our arrival passage. In the meantime we enjoyed the sailing.

Wind over tide creates a choppy and confused surface and severity depends on the strength of wind and rate of tide. As we approached the French coastal waters, both factors increased. Liquid Asset would rise and fall, twist and turn, rock and roll – a real 3D experience.

15:00 A cup of tea and cake.

“Would you like a cup of tea? Yes please. I’ll be back in 15 minutes!”

Carefully down the ladder one step at a time with one hand always holding on and one hand free. The galley has everything needed but everything is stowed away behind locked cupboards and the stove is on a gimbal (the surface stays level and the yacht swings from underneath it). Every other surface top has fiddles around the edges to stop items falling off.

Kettle on whilst the other items gathered together. Remember one hand always holding on and one is free to work. Cups start to move over surface and need to be stopped and kept upright. Tea bags and milk safely in, next the boiling water. Two hands to do three things? Mugs pinched with left hand (holding on) and kettle in right hand (free to manoeuvre) hovers back and forth over the top. Water safely into mug but only half full or it spills. Cake to slice now… I’ll leave that for your imagination!

All done.

Let’s get all this back to the deck and you’ve got the picture with one hand always holding on and one hand free.

15:15 “That is a lovely mug of tea and slice of lemon drizzle cake”

Inevitably we need wash up and to go to the heads – “I’ll be back in 20 minutes”

16:00 Winds ease and tide against reduces our speed to very slow – SOG 6.4 kts falls to 2.3 kts. Every vessel heading towards Lezardrieux has to point 30 degree North to offset the tidal flow.

17:21 Passing N cardinal and entrance to river estuary. Force of the tides diminish and soon we were traveling up river at 7.4 kts.

Nous arrive en France

Ferry glide on to floating pontoon and after a quick change of clothes, we set off in the dingy to Bar du Yacht for an entrecôte steak and frite with yachtsmen Ian and Mark.

22:00 Back on board Zzzz

Wednesday 13 June

Lezardrieux town sits on the hill above and behind the marina. A gentle stroll and we were sitting outside the coffee bar. Local Espresso bar

Within minutes we had bought croissants and jambon pizza from the neighbouring patisserie and ordered espresso from the bar. Sat at the table outside and watched the world go by and the church clock rang out on the hour. Look there’s Ian and Mark.

Arrived back at the marina and the tide had fallen again.

And can you spot our dingy?

GR34 National Cycle Route

The route passes through Lezardrieux and runs along the river bank so we packed our bags for a picnic and set off on the well marked path. Soon we were out of town and in the countryside, sometimes by the shore and then up steep inclines into wooded areas or open fields of young barley. A seat on top offers an invitation to rest and take in the view of the river.

Espace de Botanique

We arrived in a wooded valley and noticed several plants and trees were marked with a label to identify its name in multiple languages.

Everything looked naturally in position in damp soils or wet areas and we wandered around and mentally logged each one. Common elder and aspen, ferns, worts and goose grass (gallium aparine) any many more. A great idea for teaching anyone young or old about nature’s flora.

A picnic

A dry wall overlooking a muddy estuary was chosen for the picnic spot and the food and refreshments very spread out on the ground. It looked as though we were all set up to watch a show with feet dangling over the edge. Slowly the tide was rising as we consumed crusty French baguette, soft French cheese, sliced French sausage and wait for it, cool French white wine.

Then the show began…

Oyster farming

Two flat bottomed craft came close to the bank and the unloading operation began. A well honed routine of lifting off two pallets of oysters packed in their growing sacks and taken away to the sheds. We roughly estimated today’s load to be retailing at €30,000.

We packed up the measly remains of the food and set off back over hill and dale to Lezardrieux.

Passage planning

On deck, we started to plan for the next few days and that wasn’t going to easy. When do we cross the Channel? Where to go in a westerly wind and easterly tidal flow. We want to head west however nature is directing us east. Paimpol nice but tidal restrictions to enter are prohibitive.

18:00 A neighbourly gathering.

Yachtsmen Ian and Mark arrived and came on board and were shown around LA. Shortly we were joined by other neighbours and many sea stories were shared – it’s a small world it appears.

20:30 Chilli and rice then zzzz

Editors note :- thanks again Annie – a meal for four consumed by two people...

Thursday 14 June

12:45 Leave pontoon gently as wind pushes LA off and we glide down stream past our picnic spot.

13:20 Sails raised when Ile de Brehat is abeam and we’re soon off out into the open seas.

14:00 Then as predicted we encounter tides against before arriving at the next river estuary – Le Jaudy.

16:40 Once inside we pick up speed then in mid channel a black sphere appears alongside before disappearing. Instinctively engine into neutral to collapse the propeller then hold your breath and wait…

Meanwhile the sphere is making its way along the hull in front of the keel attached to its lobster pot, round the keel then past the propeller, past the rudder and then punches out the water and surfaces behind the boat. What possessed anyone to lay a pot in the channel?

18:00 Treguier is upstream and the waiting pontoon in the channel has room to berth. We check for rise and fall of the tides and calculate 2 metre short for our keel. With over nine metre range we have to move to a safe spot in the marina. Done with 0.3 metre to spare.

20:00 Each year we have a special meal prepared by skipper – Kedgeree and tonight we were delighted with another masterpiece of culinary expertise.

Zzzz

Friday 15 June

Editor’s note:- short version as have been busy with the ‘work / life’ balance

The tidal range is now 10 metre

Coffee in the Place du Martray opposite the cathedral.

Cathedral visit.

Patisserie for French crusty bread.

12:00 Lunch of pizza or tuna steak salad was dish of the day outside in the Place du Martray.

18:00 Coquille Saint Jacque and crusty bread on board.

20:00 Place du Martray we met a sailor from California USA who had sailed in Pacific and was tracing his family tree in Brittany.

Zzzzz

Saturday 16 June

Ensign – The national flag of a boat’s home nation.

Every day we raise our ensign in the morning and lower it at night. UK ensigns are also coloured in red, blue and white. White is designated to HM Royal Navy vessels and rarely seen on sailing yachts.

08:00 Yacht Palamedes motors by the pontoon looking for a berth. Pointing to a neighbouring berth we stand ready to catch the ‘ropes’ and make fast. White ensign flutters as she approaches closer and we wonder if help is needed? Safely alongside and help well received.

Yacht Palamedes is one of two Hustler yachts built in 1975 and is based in Lymington.

Yacht Palamedes link

10:00 Biocoop – A local shopping experience

Plastic bags nowhere to be seen and self service mini hoppers full of dried produce and fruit line the walls. Local seasonal vegetables and fruit displayed in racks alongside a full range of liquids and drinks. Paper bags are soon packed with muesli, white asparagus and new potatoes and we choose some French cheese for later.

11:30 Espresso in the Place du Martray, and waited for the bells to chime at noon.

12:30 Historic Treguier or Football – France vs Australia

Ancient buildings appreciated and historic narrow streets were followed as we meandered through the city. Narrow alleyways and traditional shops and bars, when not unsurprisingly one crew disappears but soon found watching a television at the back of the room in a tiny bar. Contemporary news in historic setting…

13:00 On board lunch of crusty bread, hams and cheeses, lettuce and tomatoes. The world and all who live in it set to rights!

15:30 Les Jardin de Kerdalo Botanical – Shore party

Route planning (Google maps)

1 Vehicle journey 3.2km

2 Walking route 2.5km

3 Shortcut via river bank 1.0km

4 Dingy crossing 0.2km

And guess the route our navigator chose? Surely not route 1?

After a long trek we arrived at the beautiful ‘Jardin’. It was created from humble beginnings and a vision to this interesting and extensive garden. The tower exhibition set the scene before we set off to follow the path to the grotto via the ponds and under giant gunnera plants. At the river bank we looked over the water and could almost touch Liquid Asset.

Skipper started to weep at the prospect of the long walk back.

We were soon back at the entrance and shared our experience with the current hostess and presumably the daughter of the artist Prince Peter Wolkonsky.

Les Jardin de Kerdalo link

A fluent speaker in many languages, she directed us back via route 2 and the crew started to talk to each other again…

18:00 New arrivals

We discussed the merits of Jeanneau yacht design with our neighbours with particular reference to the introduction of chines along the topsides.

Editor’s note :- Chine is the location where the deck joins the hull of the boat. The angle between the side and the bottom of a boat.

20:00 Asparagus with home made hollandaise sauce followed by new potatoes, courgette in garlic and minced beef in onion gravy.

Zzzz

Sunday 17 June

14:10 Prep for departure

Leaving at end of falling tide to catch the east flowing stream later. 2.3 metre at pontoon and slipped off into mid channel. Navigate through low depths of 0.5 metre and 0.6 metre.

16:10 Reefed sails and headed north out of River Le Jaudy estuary.

16:50 Motored in open seas staying well offshore to avoid Les Heaux de Brehat rocks. The surface waters were ‘troubled’ as the fast flowing tide moved over the jagged seabed.

Ile de Brehat – Anchorage La Corderie lies in NW corner of Ile de Brehat and would have been an ideal overnight stop. Leaving the navigation mark Gosrod to starboard, we crept slowly into the shallower water. A few mooring buoys were available but not deep enough as range too great.

Returned to main channel and motored upstream.

We attempted to anchor on riverbank in 13 metre with 30 metre of chain however anchor didn’t hold in the soft sea bed.

20:00 Arrived at pontoon and turned into the fast flowing stream. Balanced the engine speed with the tidal stream until the boat remained stationary. In time, all mooring lines and fenders were set and we ferry glided gently onto pontoon.

Passage planning for next day to arrive in Sark with favourable tides. Calculated a departure time 05:00 based on 6 knots.

Carbonara, biscuits and cheese, Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky Symphony

Zzzz

Monday 18 June

05:00 Quietly slipped mooring lines and motored off pontoon.

Dredger loading gravel from seabed

06:40 Set sails and head towards Sark leaving Roche Douvre to port. We have left the land of crusty bread.

Editor’s note :- Locals buy le pain daily and if not eaten within 24 hours you need a healthy set of teeth…

08:00 Due south of Barnuic Rocks heading NE with wind and tide and to pass Roche Douvre leaving to port by 3 miles.

08:40 Half way point and SOG 6.5 kts ETA 12:30 Sails are trimmed.

10:00 SOG 8.0 kts DTW 14.6 NM Steady winds. Tidal stream splits to north and eastwards. We catch the north flowing one to our advantage.

12:40 Pilotage in Havre Gosselin however seas too rough and choppy. We have to move to NE of Sark for shelter. Dolphins leaping passed.

13:30 ‘Let’s do it’

Passing through a strait (gulf or passage) needs meticulous planning. A vessel can only make way and turn if water is passing over the rudder blade. For example, you could be stopped over the ground but still have control if in a tidal flow (see ferry gliding). Or you could lose control if you are traveling at the same speed as the water underneath with zero flow over the rudder. The tiller is useless.

Then you have to calculate the speed of the tidal flow because it may be running too fast against you.

Lastly the depth of water under the keel needs to be sufficient to stay afloat. LA draws 2.2 metre.

Goulding Passage lies between Sark and Brecqhou and today and now offers a fleeting moment when all these conditions are exactly right and it gives a tantalising 2.2 NM shortcut into Banquette Bay instead of battling against tide.

The moment was quickly double checked and with confidence the skipper gave the order to the helmsman ‘let’s do it…’

A 180 turn and 5 minutes later we came out through the passage

15:00 Round Courbet du Nez and picked up buoy in La Greve de la Ville. LW depth checked 7.0 metre.

Chicken curry and malt

Zzzz

Tuesday 19 June

Rolling sea overnight as waves are refracted around the headland. Gently rocking becomes more exaggerated as the tide rises and a comfortable sleeping position becomes a challenge. Perhaps a sideways change, not quite, head to the bottom and diagonally, yes that’s better. At least it wasn’t the outstretched arm and leg posture called ‘starfish’.

Passage planning – Dropped buoy and motored 25 metre to neighbouring visitors buoy nearer shore and perhaps less rolling. LW depth checked and made secure.

Passage planning for next 3 days for return passage takes a high weather system into account. Planned to catch north flowing tide Wednesday in light winds to Alderney then sail Friday across Channel in northerly winds.

Rowed ashore near high water and lifted dingy onto steps as level was still to rise by over one metre.

10:30 Climbed the path as it zigzags up the cliff face and followed the signs to the nearby lighthouse. We had a view of our bay and horizon however path to lighthouse restricted.

12:00 Back on the country lanes to the village. Stopped by local pub for lunch pizza / panini. Vehicle transport on the island is horse and cart, bicycle or tractor. Therefore all signs are marked with destination by minutes for walking along wide country lanes.

13:30 Seigneur Gardens. The entrance into the walled garden is narrow and draws you in.

Suddenly we were hit with strong scents and a mass of colour. The first flush of rose blooms had opened in all their magnificent glory and the detail and variety was superb.

Then the herbaceous borders followed by grasses, wall climbers, fountains, vegetable plot, and fruit trees – apples, pears, figs and raspberries.

The final treat was the Maze and skipper joined others in figuring how to get to the ‘castle’ at the centre and then how to get out again.

Photos soon – have to go now…

Cup of tea before following a shortcut to the bay through narrow country lanes. We passed the Medical Centre and the emergency vehicle was parked outside – a tractor.

Launched the dingy and rowed back to LA.

Watched other yachts buoy hopping to avoid swinging into each other. We should all turn together thus avoiding our neighbours but various above and below water shapes give different effects for wind and tide. It is therefore possible for two sterns to meet.

Seagull colony

50 metre to shoreline and a small cliff colony of seagulls living in harmony. Constant movement as new gulls glide in to land, others perched on ledges watching for danger, a cormorant perhaps as it flies across the water, cries and calls reverberate in the hollows and the waves gently lap over the seaweed cover rocks. Binoculars pick out grey chicks hidden in the cracks eagerly waiting for a feed.

Bob Dylan and chicken / chorizo paella

Gently rocking zzzz

Wednesday 20 June

As part of the homeward passage plan, we decided to spend a day on Alderney and then make the best of the northerly wind on Friday to cross the Channel. Alderney to the east of Sark offers a better angle for sailing close hauled to Dartmouth.

Alderney Race – L’Raz. Ready Steady Go

Alderney is an island sitting 8 NM off Cherbourg Peninsula and the tidal flow can run from 6 kts to over 10 kts as it squeezes through the channel. Our calculations and departure has to be right or we could be going backwards. And with gentle winds as forecast we have to catch the north flowing tide and arrive before it turns against.

11:00 Lighthouse and Maseline Pier

Winds N1 with poor visibility in the mist. The fog horn from the lighthouse on Point Robert blasts out an eerie sound every 15 seconds. We passed below and motor towards Maseline pier before heading out to sea.

12:25 SOG 7.1 kts DTW 10 NM – visibility 300 metre

AIS is constantly checked to identify other craft heading across our bow towards France. We missed one such sailing vessel by half a mile without seeing anything through the mist. Our speed was mostly set by the tide heading north and we noticed it increase as we approached Alderney and the Race. Our safest approach was along the eastern side to keep in the tidal stream and also avoid the rocks that litter the waters on the west coast.

13:12 Heaven on a plate

Perhaps it was the misty views and isolation or the flat seas and speed through the water… but our lunch today on deck was nothing other than delicious. A warm crusty roll filled with scallops, king prawns and bacon with garlic juices. It hit all the senses and lifted our spirits.

13:40 SOG 9.4 kts DTW 0.7 NM

Although our speed over the ground is fast we have to steer LA around the top of the rocky island and avoid being slingshot past the harbour entrance. The leading line soon approaches and we swerve off the Race into the safe waters of Braye Harbour. The wind is strengthening and it is comforting to arrive and away from the melee of fast flowing water over ragged rocks.

14:46 Braye Harbour 490 43.69’ N 020 11.858’ W

Picked up mooring buoy in the lee of the long breakwater and prepared for a visit to island. Our last visit coincided with a festival however this time seemed more subdued. Ever hopeful, we set off in the dingy.

‘The Town’, St Anne has one long Main Street and today is Wednesday. Today is half day closing. Today the streets and shops are empty. Nobody except a few Frenchmen peering into shop windows for a hope there may be someone inside.

Chatted with a local gentleman who summed up the island experience through the different seasons (winter being his worst) and he then directed us to the best local pubs. Did we look as if we needed a drink?

18:00 Balcony with a view

We ordered a couple of glasses (large) of white wine (pay later) at the Braye Beach Hotel (open) and sat restfully on the balcony overlooking the sweeping crescent of white sands.

The last leg of the cruise was the topic of conversation and the up to date wind forecasts were considered. Both Thursday and Friday had similar patterns with fair northerlies in the morning and falling off in the afternoons. The dominant high over Ireland gave the steady winds however the southern parts of England would heat up during the day and cause a sea breeze effect. That probably cancels out our winds for the crossing with Friday’s affected soonest.

The prospect of another day on Alderney was easily switched to setting off early on Thursday and sail with the strongest winds.

How much? £16 lighter we headed back to LA for an early night.

Chicken with pesto pasta surprise’

Zzz

Thursday 21 June

06:00 Depart Braye Harbour, Alderney

Clear skies and good visibility and strong steady winds (F5 20 kts) from north (N by W) Challenging sailing close hauled as we point northwards (heading 3000) with all the sails reefed. LA cuts through the waves with the gunwales dipping into the water.

Strong tides west flowing and winds pressing down from north therefore we motor sail to avoid the Casquets (rocks).

08:30 SOG 8.1 kts Open seas and sail best to windward on starboard tack.

09:00 Shipping lane east flowing. At first we tacked to cross the lane at right angles however SOG falls to 3 kts. Sails down and motored across.

10:55 Enter the central separation zone marked by Channel Light Vessel (a shipping forecast weather station) and resumed sailing. We then left the shipping lanes zone and carried on sailing.

11:50 Winds ease to F4 14kts

13:25 Winds dropped as forecast and we can only catch the last of the winds in smooth waters with tide now push eastwards. DTW 21.6 NM and land sighted.

14:45 Winds fail, motor on and a cup of tea with lemon drizzle cake.

17:20 We arrived at the harbour entrance only to meet the cruise ship AEGEAN ODESSEY leaving. We pass each other according to ‘rights of way’ for shipping – tonnage irrelevant.

18:00 Clock chimes 6 bells

Arrived back in Darthaven Marina and yacht Tashana pulls in alongside. A 60 year old traditional yacht on route to Falmouth festival.

Beef mince / chorizo surprise with sweet potatoes, sweet corn and peas.

Zzzzz

Friday 22 June

Tashana is David Hillyard design and is a long keeled, centre cockpit cruising yacht. She was built in 1958 and had a major refit in 1984. She attends the festivals at Paimpol, Brest and Douarnenez and, of course, Falmouth.

Remember the wooden mast being repaired at the start of the cruise. Today it was being stepped into the Bristol Cutter replica Alice Wragg with an audience of onlookers.

Breakfast at Cafe Alf Resco – full English please.

We spent the day cleaning the top sides and below deck. Slowly the salt was washed away and distant sounds and sights were a reminder of a journey’s end.