Friday 7 June :: Dartmouth
Welcome to our blog / diary / log of the journey through the waters of the English Channel and beyond. Where will Yacht Liquid Asset go this year?
Now that is a good question and we have been asked many times. Suggestions from our followers include Wales, Malta and Zanzibar. The variables include distance out and back, tidal flow, weather, anchorages or ambitions. However it is mainly determined by wind direction and the forecasted weather systems are ‘unsettled’. This is quite unsettling for our planning!
Editors note:- This blog is written when time allows and posted only if WiFi reception is available – not an easy task when 20 miles off shore. Apologies in advance if there are some long gaps. A new keyboard and a better understanding of the web editor will help greatly. A new glossary page will be updated when sailing terms are written into the blog. Enjoy…
The crew mustered mid afternoon at Darthaven Marina on the banks of the River Dart. A new steam locomotive from the USA puffed and whistled as it disappeared around the bend, seagulls hovered and cried out overhead, the marina was full of yachts and we climbed aboard Liquid Asset. Everything was ship shape, tidy, polished and organised – a real beauty… and home for the next two weeks.
We have ‘jobs to do’ and we started a list for tomorrow. But today we needed to plan our destination. Weather maps for the next week were studied and slowly a grand plan was being formed to fulfil our ambitions – unsurprisingly it wasn’t Malta!
Dinner this evening (prepared by our onboard chef Annie) was chicken wrapped in Parma ham and sage accompanied with fresh vegetables. Delicious. Fresh fruit salad followed by biscuits and Snowdonia Black Bomber cheddar. Discussion on the finer points for our destination were finalised before we disappeared into our cabins. Our first day onboard.
Zzzz (strong winds forecast overnight)
Saturday 8 June
The forecast winds (33 KTS) blew over the top of the sheltered harbour and apart from ‘grunching’ lines that held LA against the pontoon, our first night onboard was peaceful.
Blue skies, cool wind and cumulus clouds set the scene for a day of preparation. Firstly victualling and a trip to Paignton for food – a well practiced routine – we were back onboard mid morning and everything stowed below – thankfully the days of salted fish and citrus fruits have been replaced with frozen meat, canned pulses and fresh fruit.
Dartmouth had started to waken up as the regular and special excursion steam trains began to arrive, the passenger ferries crossed the river and the sunshine bounced off the brightly coloured houses on the hillsides.
The navigation port light fixed, a visit to the chandler and then across the river on the very special car ferry ‘Hauley IV’
Dartmouth is special and offers something for young and old (and everyone in between). Shops, cafes, delis, restaurants, galleries, chandlers, wineries and best of all ice cream kiosks…
Back on board for lunch and what a treat… a Mexican dish called Machete made with garlic bread, topped with chilli red kidney beans and grated cheese and baked in the oven. The topic of conversation turned to the yacht moored in the harbour. Word on the ‘river bank’ was it could be chartered for €750,000 per week (worth checking). In contrast, a fine old wooden sailing yacht was moored close by.
Rockfish Restaurant on the river front offers freshly caught local fish and tonight we picked a hake dish, monkfish and battered cod. The room was decorated with charts and local photos and the shipping forecast was played as background in the toilets – all this seemed very fitting because tomorrow we will set sail out into the blue waters of the English Channel.
Zzzz
Sunday 9 June ‘Best laid plans’ :: Fowey
Our plan (ambition) today was quite simple because there will be light winds from the west. Plan A = fill up with fuel at opening time (08:00), motor along the coast to anchor for lunch at the River Avon, cross the sand bar into the River Yealm and relax at the riverside pub in the evening.
So how does the day really pan out… ‘CLOSED’ sign on the fuel barge because the pump attendant, we discovered later, has another role as a fireman. So we waited because we had all day to travel 20NM and by 10:30 our tank was full and we left Dartmouth behind heading for Start Point.
River Yealm anchorage is delightful because of its seclusion and hidden entrance. The rocky shoreline outside and very shallow dog leg entrance needs careful timing for deep keeled yachts. Our time of arrivals needs to avoid LW ± 1hr. Perhaps you have guessed what can happen with ‘best laid plans’ – our 2hr delay at the pumps prevented lunch at R Avon to catch the tide at R Yealm. And also not enough time to reach our anchorage and cross the sandbar safely (2.5m and falling at 15:00)
We decided to head for Fowey and the sails were raised in light winds with the tide flowing in our direction ETA 20:00. Time to sit back avoid the fishing boats and lobster pots and watch the clouds overhead.
Supper was prepared at sea from fresh ingredients because the ‘planned’ bar meal wasn’t available now. Smooth seas helped our passage and we were soon attached to the visitor pontoon at one of the favourite spots along the south coast – Fowey
Our neighbours on the pontoon were from France and we chatted in a mixture of languages (French/English) of our exploits and plans for the week ahead. However after todays events, and the weather forecast over the next few days, we may need to make more changes to Plan A.
Zzzzz
Monday 10 June :: Fowey
Today there was no wind so we went ashore to a local attraction and learned about our planet. See if you can guess…
Editor’s Note : – WiFi blackspot in Fowey harbour and mobile WiFi package over the limit. Sorted now and updating blog back on track… Photos added text to follow
We made a visit to the Eden Project and the biomes provide a dry environment from the heavy rain outside. The Mediterranean Biome replicates planting and life in places like California, South Africa and the Med. Vines are popular and various grains growing in dry climate (sorghum, millet and quinoa). The Rainforest Biome was hot and damp and provides tobacco, bananas, cocoa and rice.
Eden Project has several key messages about the environment we live in and the relevant size of each species that inhabit Earth. Plankton wins out.
We enjoyed the return journey by bus as it meandered through the country lanes and back streets. Our driver admitted this was his first solo route and he kept to the published timetable. Even so, the 5 mile journey as the crow flies took 1 hour and 40 minutes.
Back on board our resident chef prepared a delicious salmon and noodle dish, unfortunately it was consumed before a photograph was taken…
The forecasted strong winds started to blow down the valley. We were firmly attached to the pontoon and passed the evening comfortably whilst listening to Staying at Tamara’s (George Ezra). No plans to sail tomorrow and we relaxed in our warm and cosy cocoon.
Zzzz Zzzzz Zzzzz
Tuesday 11 June :: River Fal
Fowey harbour is a working port with yards providing ship repairs, a cruise liner destination and China clay loading bays up river. It is also a good venue for yacht flotillas and today we noticed a fleet of yachts flying White Ensigns (Royal Yacht Squadron). A rare sight indeed and included Polamedes last seen in Brittany 2018. (Small world)
We set off in the dingy to Polruan to check out the sea state and it was generally quite flat – northerly winds gave no fetch for waves to build. Cruise liner Crystal Serenity was offloading passengers in the bay and we headed back via the Lugger pub for lunch.
People have lived and work by the sea for millennia and homes and sea vessels have been built to withstand theses harsh conditions.
15:00 – The winds will abate gradually over the next few days “Lets do it” was the command and we decided to set off out to sea.
15:45 Our neighbours on the pontoon all came out of their ‘warm cocoons ‘ and waved goodbye and probably wondered why now? Outside the harbour entrance and the sails were raised. Cruise liner Crystal Serenity raised their anchor and passed us by on the way to Dublin ETA 05:30. We were less ambitious.
Our decision was simple – travel further west now because there was a very narrow window of weather needed to reach our final destination before Wednesday night. After then the weather system will change from a low over Normandy to a low over Ireland and the prevailing wind would be against us.
19:45 Arrived on a pontoon upstream on the River Fal – a favourite and peaceful spot. The unattended Brixham trawler Marguerite sat alongside a lonely yacht. The long pontoon was empty and ‘nothing stirs, not even a mouse’ A meal to heat (thanks again Annie) and another peaceful night.
Zzzzz Zzzzz
Wednesday 12 June :: Isles of Scilly
Low water through Carrick Roads is always a challenge for the helmsman. There is a deep (10m) channel that meanders all the way to the sea. However it is only 2 boat lengths wide (100’) before it shallows to 2m. The helmsman follows the electronic GPS chart and the marked buoys and cardinals until safely out in open seas.
Copy of ship’s log 12/06/2019
- 06:00 50 13.7N 5 00.9W DEP and pilotage down river LW channel 100’ wide
- 07:30 50 07.7N 5 01.69W Leave Carrick Roads SOG 5.5 Raise main sail
- 09:50 49 56N 5 11W Lizard Pt abeam (South Pt UK) SOG 5.2 Course to IOS
- 13:00 49 57N 5 41W Winds inc – Lands End abeam
- 13:45 Wolf Rock Photo shoot 3/4 NM to windward
- 16:35 50 00N 6 20W IOS north of St Martin – dolphins x2 spotted on arrival
- 17:23 ARR mooring buoy – attached & skies clearing – sun shines – perfect
Thursday 13 June :: Bryer
A short dingy trip to Bryer starts off like any other – check list :-
- Dingy fully inflated check
- Foot pump stowed
- Oars attached to dingy
- Outboard engine transferred from yacht to dingy with safety lines
- Spare petrol container stowed
- Waterproof grab bag filled with valuables sealed and stowed
- Life jackets donned
- Start outboard engine
- Crew aboard and castoff …
A concrete path equivalent to the A1 wound its way up the hill with pretty gardens on either side full of agapanthus and a range of flowering seaside plants. An occasional walker would pass as we made our way to the other side of the island where Atlantic breakers could be seen on the far shoreline. Bishop Rock Lighthouse in the distance and next stop America.
Hell Bay Hotel is quite remote (Train to Penzance, Scillonian III ferry to St Marys, ferry to Tresco, ferry to Bryer and walk along ‘A1’) so imagine our surprise – it was full to busting! We sat for a while in a comfortable sofa and admired the modern art inside and great seascapes outside.
Returning along the A1 to the landing beach, we stopped at the Fish Bar for sea food sandwich lunch before heading to the chandlers (actually a hut selling a few shackles, seaside souvenirs and local ice cream tubs).
Replenished, we marched along gravel tracks then footpaths to the highest hill and took in fine views of the Islands of Scilly and Liquid Asset below.
We’ve seen most things on our travels however this is the ultimate in travelling convenience…
Friday 14 June :: Greenland or Nova Scotia
We set off out into the Celtic Sea and the best course to windward was a heading to Greenland 1400NM (missing southern coast of Ireland). With a 10 kts wind and full sails travelling at 6 kts we would arrive in 233 hr (10 days).
Time to rest – Hove to is a sailing manoeuvre when the yacht is made to tack without altering the sheets. The head sail backs and the helm is adjusted. The yacht stops and is gently pushed sideways at 1.5 kts on a starboard tack.
We set off again towards our destination however we were still too close to the rocks on this tack. One more tack out to sea and this time our heading was to Nova Scotia, Canada 1900NM. We looked along the horizon from left to right spanning 300 degree – nothing but sea and sky – we were truly alone…
Our final tack gave clearance of any rocks and soon we were powering through the waves to St Agnes.
The Cove :: St Agnes / Gugh
A wide cove open to the south, we anchored in 5m of crystal blue water. The sand bar between St Agnes and Gugh began to flood and the long strands of kelp floated near the surface.
Lunch on deck whilst planning our passage back to Tresco. With wind 14 kts and tide now against, we prepared for a longer trip back. Our Plan A was reversed very quickly…
Tresco Flats
Plan B was changed to Plan C – a shortcut 6NM over Tresco Flats. Conditions have to be right and we knew there was 5m of tide over Chart Datum. Slowly and carefully we picked our way over the Flats and between the charted rocks. At one point, a seagull appeared not to be afloat and as we passed noticed it was standing on the surface on one leg!
The charts are so detailed and our depth under the keel averaged 2.2m and never below 1.7m. We arrived through the ‘worm hole’ and saved 2 hours of beating against wind and tide.
Every year our resident chef prepares a special meal for the crew – Kedgeree – and once again it was a culinary delight.
Zzzzz
Saturday 15 June :: Sailing before the wind :: River Helford
Every year there is a time when you need to plan for a long leg in the journey – either to escape bad weather or be somewhere in particular. Today is that day and had been planned for several days – return to mainland UK a distance of 60 NM. In our favour steady winds 14kts and no rain forecast – against our favour the winds were from W / SW and a swell.
08:00 Depart into Celtic Sea
Winds WSW F4 as we left the safe anchorage and out into the open seas. Two oyster catchers calling out as they disappeared behind the rocks leaving echoes in the wind. Waves breaking against the jagged rocks on either side as we slowly motor into the rising seas. Our journey has begun. We shaped around the north coast of St Martin 1NM off.
09:30 Sails raised 50 00.00’N 6 16.23’W
As we crossed latitude 50, the sails were raised, the swell lifting the yacht from behind and the F4 winds filled the sails. A course was fixed to Lizard Point 40NM to the east (missing Wolf Rock) and we were swept along in a rhythmical motion SOG 4.9 kts
10:30 Seabirds flocking on surface 49 59.07’N 6 08.268’W
Seagulls, shearwaters and gannets gathered in a fishing frenzy and this indicates fish near the surface. We watched and waited for dolphins to appear or even a whale. The flocks moved forward over the waters before disappearing to the south. No mammals broke the surface.
Clouds have a story to tell especially when out at sea.
- Cirrus – high level clouds of windswept icicles usually indicates fair weather and the wind direction.
- Strato cumulus – indicates possible strong winds to come. Time to find safe anchorage.
- Cloudless – high pressure and settled dry weather.
- Cumulus – convection clouds forming over land. This indicates the coastline 15 miles away and our first destination – Lizard Point
Editors note : – Fowey Harbour 17/6/19 16:30 Back with mobile WiFi reception and able to update some content. Past three days either out at sea or in River Helford Wifi ‘Black Hole’
Sunday 16 June :: River Helford
Monday 17 June – Sailing all the way :: Fowey
10:15 Depart mooring buoy under sail by raising the mainsail and dropping back until we had enough speed through the water to steer (a flow of water has to pass over the keel and rudder to give steerage)
Sailing slowly under sail is a skill worthy of practice and, under no pressure, we completed a number of manoeuvres by coming up to a mooring buoy and sailing off again.
We sailed out of the River Helford avoiding a small craft flying ‘A’ flag – diver below and then it into deeper waters. A fresh steady SW F3 offered all the wind we needed to ‘sail all the way’ to our next destination.
HMS Middleton passed behind our stern on a mission. We have clearing skies and the sailing is set for a mid afternoon arrival at Fowey. (Yes we’ve been there last week)
15:00 Tack at south cardinal mark and head into the Fowey harbour entrance before the sails are lowered. On this occasion we picked up a mooring buoy tucked under the lee of a steep wooded river bank.
Shore party to Ship Inn Fowey and then on board for the first half of a Fish Pie (Thanks again Annie)
Zzzzz
Tuesday 18 June – The ‘Bridge’ :: Plymouth
Why Fowey again? Even on a grey windless morning the harbour traffic has started. Four yachts and a Brixham trawler have left port before the clock strikes 8.00. The car ferry crisscrosses the river upstream, the Polruan ferry moving passengers downstream and working boats and dinghies ply back and forth. Seagulls calling out and ducks gliding in to land safely on the water. Another three yachts leave this delightful place.
09:30 Breakfast ashore is a real treat and where better than the ‘Pinkie Murphy Cafe’ – bacon in Brioche bun or scrambled eggs and bacon and coffees – there were lots of helpful and interesting life messages dotted around the walls. Worth a visit if your in town – Link
12:00 Bread and water replenished we set off again – no wind and rain forecast – we decided to motor east and arrive somewhere ! (Don’t worry as we had a choice of three possible anchorages but couldn’t choose)
Polperro is a popular scenic coastal village and we had never been before. No harm having a look however at LW in the heavy rain, the rocky and narrow harbour entrance was best seen from a distance (0.5NM). Perhaps another day when the conditions are right (sun, HW, settled light winds)
Onward to Plymouth to seek out an overnight anchorage.
The Bridge is a marked shallows passage that offers a shortcut through Plymouth harbour. Not for the faint hearted, it is short in length and width. We approached the gap at HW and very quickly found ourselves through it and out the other side into deep water.
18:40 Anchored in 7.8m water. Plymouth docks lights sparkle in the distance.
Zzzzz Zzzzz
Wednesday 19 June :: Sand Acre Bay
07:45 Our overnight anchorage is set in a quiet backwater off the River Tamar. Silence and still waters with only fish jumping around the yacht. We never moved or swung on our anchor chain and we were only lifted up and down through the 4m tidal range overnight.
We launched the dingy to explore Sand Acre Bay and perhaps land on the pontoon nearby and visit Antony Estate and Gardens on the foreshore.
Our plan was thwarted by MoD signs – the pontoon was nothing less than HMS Raleigh and Jupiter Point training centre. The area was filled with all nature of craft and navy personnel – time to exit right…
The shoreline was equally challenging with deep soft black mud ready to pull you down to your knees – time to exit left and our mission was aborted.
LW as we departed and therefore the ‘Bridge’ was closed. Plenty of depth in the wide channel that winds down to the open seas. Nothing to stop us meandering past the docks, marinas and cruising berths.
Until you meet a tanker with 3 tug boats and a police escort coming around the corner. We moved to one side as the convoy slipped past.
Cawsands Bay at the entrance to Plymouth Sound offered a safe anchorage for the night. A popular spot and to be recommended .
Thursday 20 June :: HMS Queen Elizabeth
The last leg of the cruise with forecast winds WSW F5 gusting F6. This allowed a straight heading towards Start Point and then gybe into the bay for a lunch stop.
As we know, Plymouth has a high naval presence however we were not expecting to see this…
On our horizon just 3 miles distant, the vessel identity was confirmed as HMS Queen Elizabeth undertaking manoeuvres. In the space of a few moments it turned 180 degree and sailed off over the horizon
Dartmouth
Experience Sailing 